Sunday, 10 March 2013

fashion week special II- New York, London, Paris

As promised, here comes the second part of the fashion week special, before I will show you how my own creations are proceeding. Let's start with New York where the fashion circus begins every season.

_New York

Every city has an own style and I would describe the New York look in general as rather casual compared with Paris and Milan. There is also a more visible tendency of deconstructed clothes and draping. 

Prabal Gurung #1
Prabal Gurung #2

The first two looks are by Prabal Gurung. The emphasis lies on a structured daywear with military elements. I especially like the contrast of the floral elements which break the strictness of the silhouette. The color palette includes olive, navy blue, black and red.

Oscar de la Renta #1
Oscar de la Renta #2

Oscar de la Renta made headlines when he invited John Galliano to be designer-in-residence for the last collection. As expected there was a huge gossiping about who designed which look. The collection does have elements which have a hint of French handwriting, but that's all speculation and I especially liked the exaggerated toile prints and jacquards as shown in the two pictures above.

Diane von Furstenberg #1
Diane von Furstenberg #2

Diane von Furstenberg said "Every woman wants to be glamorous and rock 'n' roll. (...) It's not about going to a party. It's life as a party." On the hunt for inspiration, she probably just has to browse to private photo album. The collection included golden shades for the glam and some animal prints for the rock 'n' roll.


The London look continuous with the Burberry Prorsum show the trend towards animal prints in combination with the transparent latex.

Burberry Prorsum #1
Burberry Prorsum #2

The kinky details in the choice of material showed a nice contrast to the elegant pencil skirts, sweaters, and belted coats. 

Mary Katrantzou #1
Mary Katrantzou #2

Mary Katrantzou shifted away for her new collection from the prints and color palette that have fueled her rise and put a strong focus on shape and silhouette. Which meant that color was almost completely back-seated this season. She opted for the architecture of asymmetry, with obilike folds and drapes of fabric. 


French Fashion is associated with freedom, skill and lightness. Miuccia Prada made a light and cheerful collection based on the "typical" french elements, with a lot of stripes and dots which showed a connection from past to present.

Miu Miu #1
Miu Miu #2

The venue was again the Palais d'Iena, but altered by Rem Koolhaas' OMA. By slicing the show space in half, raising the floor and lowering the ceiling with industrial grid-like grates, they tried to submit the idea of "cutting through the past," as the designer explained.

Valentino #1
Valentino #2

And another Italian designer duo impressed with their collection. For the Valentiono show the duo around Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli took Vermeer's Girl With a Pearl Earring as an inspiration.
Main element of the collection was a white collars which was added to many familiar Valentino looks. The collars came in laser-cut leather encrusted with beads or in "Calvinist" plain cotton piqué, and they decorated the simplest pieces, like long-sleeve A-line shifts in wool and short alpaca coats, as well as more ornate creations, including a creation in Delft ceramics pattern.

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